What does it fit?
Q: I have a Mk1 chassis vehicle, what modifications or upgrades do I need to use your braking systems?
A: Our kits require the use of a 22mm master cylinder, and front knuckles with separate pad and caliper carriers. Our kits replace the caliper and pad carrier. The 22mm master cylinder originated from the Scirroco 16V, which is becoming hard to find. A popular upgrade is to use the Mk3 brake booster converted to run with the Mk1 pedal cluster. The modification involves cutting the booster pushrod and clevis pin from the Mk1 booster and welding to the Mk3 pedal cluster. After this, you can run the 22mm, 23.8mm and 25.4mm master cylinders.
Q: I have a Mk2 or Mk3 chassis vehicle, what modifications or upgrades do I need to use your braking systems?
A: Similar to the Mk1 Chassis, our kits require use of a 22mm master cylinder, and front knuckles with separate pad and caliper carriers. Luckily, parts are not in shortage for this platform of vehicle. Most Mk2 and Mk3 VW's came equipped with the correct type of knuckle, except for some base platform vehicles such as CL models. They are easy to find used. The Mk3 22mm master cylinder bolts in to the Mk2 booster if you have an early Mk2.
Q: I have a Mk2 or Mk3 chassis vehicle, what vehicles have the correct knuckles for me to convert to?
A: B3 and B4 Passat 4x100, Corrado G60 4x100, Corrado VR6 5x100, Mk2 GTi, GLi and GTX 4x100, Mk3 3 GL 4x100 pattern, Mk3 VR6 5x100
Note: it is recommended to replace the wheel bearings in any knuckles assemblies that are being reconditioned before installation. A little money spent here is well worth it.
Q: Is there any way to test if MMP's braking kits will fit behind my wheels?
A: We have templates available that you can request. You will have to print them to hard card, and use them to sweep the inside of your wheel for clearance. Please note that our templates must not be used for competitors brake kits, as ours are unique to our kits, and clearances will vary.
Q: I want to hide my braking system inside the cabin so I can have a smoothed/show engine bay. What components are required for this?
A: The basic components needed are a Wilwood pedal cluster, front and rear brake master cylinders, and a clutch master cylinder. The master cylinders will require either remote fluid reservoirs, or in some situations they are integrated. The pedal cluster is best to be dry fitted and mocked up before paint, when the vehicle is in the metal work stage. Please contact firstname.lastname@example.org before ordering so that the system can be designed and tailored for your specific needs.
Q: When picking piston sizes in my calipers, is bigger better?
A: Simply put, no. You can have too much front or rear braking. More isn't always better, sometimes it's just more.
There are many factors when it comes to braking system design. Caliper piston sizing is only one of many factors. "Clamping Force" is a term that is overly used in the aftermarket braking industry. Ask any professional racer, and they will always tell you that they want a brake feel that has modulation, predictability and a consistent feel. It depends on many factors. Mechanical grip, weight distribution, suspension setup to achieve this, driver feeling and feedback.
We have many options available for just about every option, contact us to plan your setup
Q: Is there a difference between cross-drilled and slotted brake discs?
A: Yes, but both function relatively in the same way. Brake fade is the product of brake pads and rotors creating a layer of gas that acts like a cushion between the two, in high stress/heat situations. Slotting and drilling creates an exit for these gases and heat, allowing the pad to contact in a much higher temperature range.
Another advantage to these processes is that the pad is de-glazed as it passes over the slotting or drilling machine marks. Glazing happens when the face of the pad or rotor is polished, or the composition of the pad melts and polishes together. This lowers the friction level, and having the glaze cut with slots or cross-drilling every pass keeps your pads and rotors functioning at their optimum level throughout their service life.
Q: What is brake bias?
A: Brake bias is a measurement of the proportion of braking from the front axle to the rear axle expressed in percentage. For example, 60/40 bias would mean that the front brakes handle 60% of the load and the rear axle 40%. There are two ways to measure proportion as well, static vs dynamic. ABS and adjustable proportioning valves can have a further effect on bias.
Brake bias can also be changed with rotor diameter, pad coefficient of friction and piston area of the brake calipers. Changing any of these will also have an effect on brake bias percentage.
Q: What is the ideal brake bias for my car?
A: There is no specific bias percentage for every car. Factors such as weight distribution over the front and rear axle (static distribution), weight transfer (dynamic distribution), suspension settings (spring rates), tire compounds and road surface all come into play. In general you want as much rear brake is as possible without locking the rear over the front. Plumbing in an adjustable proportioning valve to the rear brakes will help you fine tune and dial in the amount of dynamic rear braking.
You can have too much bias on the front or rear axle. Moving too much bias forward can lead to overheating of the front brakes, moving it to the rear can make for an unstable car. The smaller the front disc, the less forward bias you would want to have to avoid the heat soak in the brake discs.
For help calculating brake bias in custom situations, please contact email@example.com
Q: What brake fluid should I run with my new brake kit?
A: Dot 4 non-synthetic brake fluid is recommended for our braking kits. Brake fluid should be completely flushed for street applications no longer than every two years. This is due to the fact that brake fluid is hydroscopic and draws moisture in from the air. Moisture in your brake fluid lowers the boiling point and the effectiveness of your braking system. Brake fluid should be bled and inspected before any track day.
Q: How important is brake cooling for my VW?
A: Simply put, VERY important. VW is heavily lacking in this area and our braking systems deliver performance which far exceeds the factory setup. This in turn increases brake temperatures, which can lead to brake fade if not fed with proper cooling. This is not as important in street situations where you are not reaching peak temperatures stoplight to stoplight, but it is critical in race track situations!
Q: I would like to upgrade my rear calipers for the alloy Mk4 calipers. What is needed for the swap and what are the benefits?
A: For the Mk4 rear caliper conversion you need our Mk4 conversion flex lines and caliper from a Mk4 Golf or Jetta (38mm piston). It is important not to use Passat rear calipers which look very similar. The bleed valve is in the incorrect location and it uses a 41mm piston which will give you an unfavorable brake bias. The 38mm piston is the same size as the early cast calipers. If you do not currently have rear disc brakes on your Mk1/2/3, you would need to convert with stub axles, pad carriers, pads and hard lines.
The benefits to the upgrade is the reduction in weight and, the vastly improved handbrake function. The original early cast calipers were prone to wear on the backside of the caliper pistons and pawl causing a poor performing handbrake.
Legal and Policies
Refund Policy Returns: Returns accepted only if in unused condition and in the original packaging. All orders, including pending orders cancelled by the customer due to current global stock shortages are subject to a 15% restocking fee without exceptions. Customer assumes all returns shipping costs for returned items and all items must be sent via insured and trackable shipping only, no exceptions. Once your return is received and inspected, we will send you an email to notify you that we have received your returned item. We will also notify you of the approval or rejection of your refund. If you are approved, then your refund will be processed, and a credit will automatically be applied to your credit card or original method of payment, within a certain amount of days.
Late or missing refunds: (if applicable) If you haven’t received a refund yet, first check your bank account again. Then contact your credit card company, it may take some time before your refund is officially posted. Next contact your bank. There is often some processing time before a refund is posted. If you’ve done all of this and you still have not received your refund yet, please contact us at firstname.lastname@example.org.
Sale items: (if applicable) Only regular priced items may be refunded, unfortunately sale items cannot be refunded.
Exchanges: (if applicable) We only replace items if they are defective or damaged. If you need to exchange it for the same item, send us an email at email@example.com to arrange the exchange Shipping: You will be responsible for paying for your own shipping costs for returning your item. Shipping costs are non-refundable. If you are shipping an item over $75, you must use a trackable shipping service or purchase shipping insurance. Otherwise we cannot guarantee that we will receive your returned item.